We woke up early in our apartment/hotel suite, with the sun streaming in through the space between the drapes, and the sound of construction rising up through the street air into the bedroom. Apparently construction can start rather early in downtown Montreal. No matter, we fell back asleep regardless and dozed until we lazily decided that it was time to start the day.
L'Appartement Hotel had a free continental breakfast buffet, which is one of the reason that I chose that location. Very few hotels in downtown Montreal offer this and when I travel, I've always found it to be nice to be able to grab some cereal or a muffin in the morning and then a bagel and piece of fruit for a snack on the road or later in the evening. Unfortunately, the scene we walked into reminded me of what the family section in a Denny's might be like on a weekend morning. People everywhere, loud talking, barely anywhere to sit. The biggest problem though was in the layout of the breakfast. Now, not just my interior designer instincts could have figured out that this space was the most poorly planned buffet line ever. A large island in the middle holding the coffee, tea, hot water, milk, yogurt, muffins, etc, with narrow walkways on either side. There were trays but these proved to be bulky and useless since there was nowhere on this island to set them down while gathering the breakfast choices. A juggling act proved even more tricky finding out that the plates and cutlery where actually on the back wall in the middle of the toaster and bagels/breads, past the island. So, you had to push past people to get a plate, then go back past people to get a slice of bread, then back again to toast it. Insane, I tell you. Maybe this was the French's idea of a joke on the visiting English? In any case, we basically carb loaded on Eggo's, muffins, cereal and toast, and then ramped up that hit with a sugary jolt of cafe mochas that we made by dumping half a packet of hot chocolate into our coffees. A couple of those, and I was buzzing to get outside!
We changed into our walking gear, packed up a bag with the camera and some snacks, and off we went on our downtown adventure! One of the first things that I noticed about the downtown was all of the graffiti art. I say art because these were truly pieces of beauty. No cowardly juvenile tagging here, but full colour, mural sized pieces of urban cultural beauty. I couldn't help but stop to admire each piece that we saw. I eagerly ducked between every building on our way down St.Catherine's street (down the Latin side), eager to see what treasure the brick would hold. I've only posted a few of the photos that I took of these colourful and detailed masterpieces. I wish that Winnipeg had more of this type of art in the downtown. C kept smiling and asking me if I was enjoying my camera as he was forced to stop every ten feet to watch me click click click quick snapping shots with amazing shutter speed.
Even a BFI bin is transformed into a thing of beauty after being covered in vibrant spray paint. As we walked farther and farther down St.Catherine's street, we passed all sorts of interesting clothing shops, sex shops, restaurants, pubs, a burlesque parlour and we checked out as many places as we could. We reached a huge bridge that we walked under and saw the homeless people, sleeping on cardboard mats, their dogs curled up asleep beside them. We walked farther and the shops were replaced with taller condos and official looking buildings. Realizing we were probably getting away from the "tourist" area, we decided to turn around and make our way back to one of the cross-streets miles up. We had a map so we decided that once we found the right one, we could take a left and walk right through China Town.
China Town was very cool. One of the most amazing things about Montreal downtown on a Saturday is the people. The is actual hustle and bustle. Imagine Corydon on a hot summer day, and multiply that experience by 10. People everywhere, dressed in their own unique style, something that Winnipeg definitely seems to lack. People speaking in English, French, Chinese, Spanish. Open aired cafes spilling into the street. The noise of vibrant city, alive. I absolutely loved it! China town contains countless spice stores, trinket stores, and bakeries. Our feet were getting quite sore and since we hadn't had lunch yet, we were both getting peckish. We thought that a snack might do us good, but this turned out to be lunch-suicide. We walked into the first bakery that we reached, after walking past a window with neatly arranged pastries filled with cream, calling to us through the window "come eeeeat usss! we are soooo soft and tasty!" Of course, we're on holidays, so we listened to these little voices of naughty delight. Once through the tiny entrance, we realized that the bakery was actually much bigger than it appeared on the outside. Like many shops in Montreal, a narrow space between two buildings often incredibly houses very large spaces. It reminds me of the scene from Harry Potter where the building that the Order of the Phoenix use opens up like an accordion to accommodate for the space required. Anyways, back to these big, plum pastries! There were more choices than we knew what to do with and everything was $1. What?! I was indeed a kid in a candy store. Actually, a young(ish) adult in a Chinese bakery shop. I wanted one of everything! I mean, come on, I was walking all day, right? Coconut tarts and buns, custard tarts and buns, buns stuffed with different creams, twisty pastry, savory tarts, hot dogs wrapped in pastry...oh, and they also offered the wonderfully refreshing and fun-to-drink bubble tea that I so guiltily love. What could be more fun than getting a plastic cup full of the flavour of your choice, with a huge wide plastic straw with red stripes, poking into the liquid, carefully transporting plump round chewy balls of tapioca to my eagerly awaiting taste buds. Chewing up the tapioca is such a simple pleasure but evokes such a child-like moment of happiness for me. I am smiling just thinking about it. I think only having a bubble tea everyone once in a blue moon also makes the experience that much more special. Again, back to the pastry. We decided on a big fluffy bun with soft bright white cream, poking out of the ends. We also decided on the coconut bun with a sugary crust top and dough swirled together like a cinnamon bun. Lastly, we found a long twisted soft pastry that had egg custard dotted throughout the folds. Since that one was wrapped in plastic, it only made sense to buy it for later. Obviously. Once at the counter, C asked again if I wanted bubble tea. I sometimes feel like having too many treats will spoil me and nothing will be special anymore, and then I feel guilty. But, after very little arm twisting, I had a coconut bubble tea ordered and C was waiting on his mango version while we paid for our bun. They were wrapped in light parchment paper and placed in one of the thousands of white paper bakery boxes they had on the counter. Leaving the bakery with our small parcel of fresh sweets made me feel very Parisian and the bubble tea, more metropolitan. The sun was warming the entire street and we bustled our way through the crowds to some nearby empty benches around the corner. Our feet needed a rest and our tummies needed some more fuel. We each picked up a pastry and took our first much anticipated bites. The taste was as sweet and fresh as it looks in the photos. We polished off the 2 in the box and the packaged one in about 5 minutes. Moooore sugary carbs, and we're ready for the road again.
One of the coolest things about larger cities is the abundance of public art. Montreal has some huge pieces. The one below looked like a jumbled bunching of letters on red poles from the street, but the piece also included a viewing box: a small square on a pole on top of a box, to look through. From the right perspective, the seemingly random letters come together into a statement.
One of my other favorite pieces that we stumbled across was a thick green lawn, covered in giant car air fresheners. Signs on the grass stated in french to keep off the lawn, while children cheerily laughed and ran through the wooden sculptures. I for one, am with the children on this one. Public works of art should be enjoyed to the fullest and I was ready to run through the tree too if our feet weren't getting so sore from a day of walking.
A day before we flew to Montreal, hubs jumped down from a ladder and came down off-balance and hard on one heel. It was still sore when we got to Montreal and the hours of walking weren't doing him any good. We were nearing Vieux Port now, the oldest area of Montreal. C's foot was throbbing by this point and after staring up in wonder at the beautifully constructed Cathedral Notre Dame, when we looked down, an angel of mercy was standing before us. 10' tall, white and named Duke. A row of horse drawn carriages were right behind us, the riders taking a break to snack on sandwiches. We looked up at the first one and asked how much. A quick check in the wallet for cash and we were good to go. We first made our way through the winding financial district before getting to Vieux Port. There is nothing quite like seeing all of the old architecture and knowing that many of these structures were standing in the same place over 200 years ago.
After a too-short and too-expensive ride, we were dropped off near the harbour and started making our walk back up the hill. We explored a few unique decor shops along the way and paused for scenic photographs in between the stone houses on the cobblestone streets. We reached a large opening between buildings, and were suddenly in a town square. C was getting tired and his sore foot were not helping his mood for an area he felt was too touristy. We saw many street performers including a Peruvian pan flute band (cue the hilariously cute South Park episode), a woman enthralling a group of children with her animal balloons, and a man doing street magic. He had take the hoodie of a volunteer from the crowd and was proceeding to put a lit and smoking cigarette into it. The faces on the on-lookers was priceless and the magician's timing was impeccable at creating tension. I'll spoil the ending. The hoodie survived and the magician was not pummelled by the large owner of the article.
Despite all of the food we had eaten that day, we were again, getting hungry. A lesson for those of you thinking that only sugary carbs will keep your tank running, not so. The night sky had fallen and the temperature had dropped slightly but it was still pleasant outside and the streets were no less filled with excitement and people. In fact, all of the restaurant were no hubs of activity, inside and out. We finally found a street with restaurant after restaurant on it and we decided to walk the strip to determine what sort of food we were craving. Chinese, nope. Sushi, nope. Greek...hmm, that looked really good. Mexican...hubs was down for that. We walked back to the Mexican place and saw the line going out the door and men in sombreros and decided that this was just a little much for us at the moment. We wanted to just sit down and enjoy ourselves. Me, having a memory for the placement of objects, remembered that there was a taco sign on one of the building near our apartment and I could see in my mind that it was on the south side of the street, on the far corner of an intersection. So, we started walking back up the hill and then back down the street that our hotel was on. We walked and we walked and we walked... We started losing confidence that we were going in the right direction but after consulting the hotel map, we were only another 5 blocks from the hotel. Marching on. We passed the hotel and now I remembered the restaurant was nearby. Well, maybe nearby from the hotel when you haven't already walked for 10 hours and are getting sore and tired and hungry. We stopped a girl at an intersection who was English and she told us that it shouldn't be far. We still didn't see it. "That it!" I proclaimed. "One more block and then I say we turn around and just go back to the Lebanese place on the other side of the hotel or pick up something from the grocer!" At the very next corner, we saw the glowing sign...tacos. Sigh of relief. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good feeling when we went in. The restaurant wasn't very full and the menu was short and didn't contain anything vegetarian and very few chicken dishes, which I was craving much more than beef. We each found something to try. I got chicken enchiladas that was actually more of a chicken mole, heavy on the sweet side, with bland overcooked rice and refried beans. Remember: you eat with your eyes, first. Looking at this plate didn't make me want to eat anything. Tasting it even less. I was disappointed but hungry. C got these mini beef tacos that actually had a little green to them vs my plate of brown. I do give credit for the homemade corn tortillas though, which were tasty albeit a little dry. We ate quickly and left quickly, our exhaustion falling down on us in an instant. I had been talking about getting gelati or ice cream for most of the evening but there wasn't anywhere good that was open near us at this time. We did stop in a small cafe almost across from the hotel and ordered 2 large slices of cake, to go. Chocolate layered cake for me and a sweet cinnamon caramel cheesecake for C. We carried our weary bodies back up to our suite, collapsed onto bed after making a fresh kettle of tea, and dug into our cakes while watching the promo for a huge fight that was happening the next night. Substantially more sugar pumping back through our veins and our sore legs felt a little better from the hit. We stayed up watching the end of a beautifully filmed promo/doc and then slid into a deep, restful sleep.
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Sunday we had to switch from our apartment hotel suite in Montreal to a Hilton room Laval where my conference was taking place. The area in Laval where we were was nothing like Montreal. No culture, no history, just big box stores, malls, and pedestrian-unfriendly street. Our last meal alone was that day's lunch since I had to meet with the other marketing members for dinner that night. We decided to hunt down a Lebanese place since we had missed out in Montreal and settled on Amir's, which is a chain but was closer to our hotel than the other recommended places. Since we didn't have a lot of time, we went with proximity. Surprisingly, we were rewarded despite my slight apprehension. The food tasted fresh, healthy, and flavourful! I had a Falafal Plate that came with my choice of 4 sides! Oh, how I love choices! Tabbouleh, bean salad, couscous salad and marinated beets for me. C got the kebobs with garlic spread, pickled turnips (which I am always disappointed by the lack of at the Donair/Shwarma place near us), rice, salad and fries. Everything was wonderful and it was a lovely meal to share together. My fun in Montreal with hubs was over. Our one year anniversary was the Monday so we wouldn't see much more than an hour of each other that day, but the whole trip was a lot of fun and I cannot wait to go back!